This post is one of several that concern Yosemite National Park but, being haphazardly disorganised and motivated by the ideas that suddenly pop into my head when writing my blog, the posts are not necessarily in chronological order! Expect the next few posts to be littered in time 
So, we were into our second week in Yosemite National Park and we’d already been drenched by our fair share of waterfalls (Nevada, Vernal, Bridalveil etc) but our thirst for more was unquenchable. We decided on trying our hand (or rather, our feet) at Yosemite Falls. Firstly, just a few facts; the falls are effectively split into two, the Lower falls and, surprisingly enough, the Upper falls. Both of which combined fall a total of some 2,300 feet, giving them the accolade of being the 5th highest falls in the world. Ok, having Googled those facts, there seems to be some conjecture with that last statement. In many lists, the falls appear to be 5th highest but in some, more pedantic, ‘top tens,’ they slip a place to 6th. The arguments seem to rage around the fact the falls are split into two with some waterfall aficionados declaring from behind their thin-rimmed spectacles that any fall must be free falling in one long, crashing, ribbon-like cascade.
I would have perhaps agreed with them had we not now accomplished the feat of climbing these magnificent falls. As of now, my opinion is that if it’s wet, rapid, tumbles over a rocky edge, drops to the floor via gravity and, perhaps the defining criteria, you wouldn’t jump into a barrel to ride it then it’s most definitely a waterfall. The fact then that Yosemite is split into two parts makes it doubly beautiful and it gives you a couple of reasons to strap a rucksack to your back and tie on those hiking boots.
We drove into the park via the Arch Rock entrance, north of Mariposa and set about finding a parking space around Yosemite Lodge. We’d ensured an early start to the day for two reasons. One, by the time we were climbing the Upper Falls we would not yet have encountered the blazing heat of the springtime afternoon sunshine. Secondly, finding a space at Yosemite Lodge was likely to be easier first thing in the morning than waiting for everyone to finish their breakfast and descend into the park.
After getting our gear ready we had a small trek of a mile or so to wander along the Northside Drive to the trailhead. At this point, as with virtually every other trailhead in the park, a sign greeted us and warned us of the task ahead by depicting several destinations, each with an associated mileage attached. We knew then that our journey was to encompass a trek of around 9 miles (round trip) and a climb of some 3,000 feet from the valley floor. So then, we began the first part of our walk.
It began in a similar fashion to that of the closing stages of Nevada Falls. The climb to begin with, although along a relatively worn track, was steep and negotiated via a series of switchbacks. It became decidedly steeper soon after and then, thankfully, flattened out as the switchbacks seemed to stretch out gradually. Encouragement for the climb came from many quarters; the burning sun was not yet high into the sky (and besides, a lot of the initial switches were shaded by trees), the excited chatter of myriad children being led by a young, enthusiastic guide prodded at our pride to be more athletic than they were despite our lungs burning for oxygen and the occasional roaring sound of a magnificent waterfall pushed us on regardless. Knowing where we were heading gave us a lift whenever we felt the going was just a little tough – the rewards of climbing the 5th/6th highest fall on the planet (depending on your pedanticity!) are something you just don’t find down at the local Virgin Active!
As we continued on our journey it was definitely noticeable that the number of hikers thinned out considerably. Whether this was because of the constant babbling of children spoiling their escape into this wilderness, having their food rations stolen by brave and hardy Stella Jays and Squirrels or the fact that the climb to the top of the lower falls is reasonably steep I’m not sure but I’d like to think that having the thought of standing one pace from a two and a half thousand foot drop at the top of Yosemite Point was enough to make you forget boisterous kids and brazen wildlife. Whatever, we ploughed on and began to feel refreshed merely by hearing thunderous water not far ahead. The heat, even at a relatively early stage of the day, was beginning to pick up intensity and the feeling of getting to the top of the Lower Falls pushed us on for the hope of finding a swirling breeze and / or misty haze to bathe us with refreshment. The final few switchbacks to the top of the Lower Falls were long and sun dappled but as you draw closer to Columbia Rock you are rewarded with excellent views of the Upper Falls and there are photo opportunities aplenty affording the time to catch your breath and marvel at the rainbow swirls towards the base of the falls. It’s worth mentioning here, whilst talking of the base, that the falls are so high that in winter time the few drops still tippling over the top of the fall has long since frozen by the time it reaches this point. That’s quite something.
It had been our intention to stop by Columbia Rock and eat our lunch but three factors forced us to change our minds; there were still a few people milling around and such crowded company spoiled the ambience a little, the sunshine was now getting quite aggressive and there was little opportunity to find shade and, probably more pertinently, we were just too damn excited about getting to the very top and, thus, we trekked onwards satisfied that our adrenalin would sustain us till we reached the summit.
We headed onwards, stopping every so often to take in breath and the site of the falls whenever we could. I guess climbing a waterfall is something akin to sex. It takes just a momentary explosion of energy to reach the climax but taking your time to breathe in every sensual moment enhances the whole act. We didn’t want to miss anything and we took our time to drink in and taste every drop of Yosemite Upper Falls. It was very intoxicating and utterly uplifting.
The final stages of the climb saw us veer away from the falls themselves and embark on an arduous stretch of tough, rocky switchbacks. By now, the amount of hikers left walking near or around us had thinned out dramatically. Our guide book had promised that we’d be heading in relative solitude to the top of these falls as many adventurers eat their sandwiches at Columbia Rock, swig a bottle of water or two and then do a swift 180 and head back down to the valley floor. We found this to be most perplexing; rather like finishing half a bottle of fine wine, popping the cork back in and flinging the bottle into a pedal bin. If you’d come this far, surely you had to go on and see the climb through to the bitter end?
So we pressed on, the heat building with every step. The last few hundred feet comprised of several steep rocky switchbacks and we found ourselves stopping to wipe brows and suck in some air routinely. Not long after, we finally made it to the summit and were rewarded with a set of downhill stairs hewn from granite to a rocky overhang that had a protective steel barrier keeping you from base jumping to the valley floor. We reached over and took in the view in awe at the power and majesty of the falls themselves. There are ample opportunities to get a fine array of photographs at this point, including that of the affectionately named, “Washington’s Nose.” A large portion of rock that crops out to the left of the gushing maw is, at first glance, shaped like that of the central facial feature of George Washington. It’s humorous to look upon and instantly recognisable; rather like laying face up on the grass and finding forms of everyday items in the fluffy clouds that pass above.
The top of the falls make an excellent perch to have lunch and rest before heading down the same route to the valley floor. However, it is worth trekking an extra 600 feet to Yosemite Point to take in further views of Half Dome and Sentinel Dome. There are guide books that stress that it’s tough going to the point itself but, having already climbed steeply to get to the summit of the falls, it’s easier than you would imagine.
In summary then, for anyone remotely interested in Yosemite National Park and particularly hiking the falls in springtime, Yosemite Upper and Lower provide an exhilarating day hike and shouldn’t be missed.